PACKing tips

   DO-IT-YOURSELF 

This page covers tips on doing your own packing.  If you're packing in Eugene Oregon, I recommend you get your packing supplies from one of the three main U-Hauls in Eugene.

 That's because they have one of the best selections of materials, OK prices, and you can easily return any unused materials that are like new, if you keep your receipt.  The two best places are the Glenwood U-Haul (4400 Franklin Blvd), and the U-Haul up the far end of River Road (150 Oroyan).  These  U-Hauls have the best selection and inventory of supplies.   The W. 7th U-Haul has a lesser inventory at 2150 W. 7th.  Walmart boxes are cheaper, but they're not quite as good, are much harder to return, and they only have a couple basic box sizes.  Or, get used boxes from the FREE section of Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace.

making a packing MATERIALS SHOPPING list

As long as it's easy to return your unused boxing supplies, it's better to have a little too much than run short on supplies, so you don't have to run back for more.   An easy way to make a boxing supply list is to use one of our pre-made lists of supplies that's tailored for different general house sizes, provided below.  Just find the list that fits your house size, and use that list.  

Then you can either pull this page up on your phone and use these lists as you shop at the store, or you can use your home computer to copy and paste your chosen list into a document you make and print on your computer.  You can do a little tailoring if you think you need a little more or less of something.  Then fill in the number and sizes of the specialty items you need for your particular specialty items, such as number and sizes of mattress bags, TV boxes, and picture boxes.  

2 BDRM APT OR 1 BDRM HOUSE

1  Small box bundle of 25: . . . . . . . .  $41

10  Medium boxes: $2.39 ea.    . . . .  $24

4   Large boxes: 3.10 ea  . . . . . . . . . .  $12

4  Tape rolls, Lg paper: $7 ea.  .  . .   $28

2 Packing paper (200 ct): $20 ea. . .  $40

1  Bubble Wrap (large box): . . . . . . .  $26

1 Stretch Wrap 5", hand-held:  . . . .  $10

1 Moving Label packs:  . . . . . . . . . . .   $3

1 Marker pens & cutter knife set:  . . $5

                                TOTAL SO FAR = $190

2 BDRM HOUSE

1  Small box bundle of 25: . . . . . . .  $41

1 Medium box bundle of 20:  . . . .  $45

6   Large boxes: 3.10 ea  . . . . . . . . . $15

6  Tape rolls, Large paper: $7 ea.   $35

4 Packing paper (200 ct): $20 ea. . $60

1  Bubble Wrap (large box): . . . . .  $26

1 Stretch Wrap 5", hand-held:  . .  $10

1 Moving Label pack:  . . . . . . . . . . .  $3

1 Marker pens & cutter knife set:   $5

                              TOTAL SO FAR = $240

3 BEDROOM HOUSE

2 Small box bundles of 25: $41ea.  $82

1 Medium box bundle of 20:  . . . . . $45

8 Large boxes: @3.10 ea  . . . . . . . . . $25

8 Tape rolls, Large paper: $7 ea.  . . $56

5 Packing paper  (200 ct): $20  . . . $100

2  Bubble Wrap (Lg boxes): $26 ea. $52

1 Stretch Wrap 5", hand-held:  . . . . $10

2 Moving Label packs: $3 ea.  . . . . .   $6

1 Marker pens & cutter knife set:  . . $5

                                TOTAL SO FAR = $380

4 OR 5 BEDROOM HOUSE

2  Small box bundles of 25: $41ea.  $82

2  Medium box bundles of 20: $45  $90

1  Large box bundle of 15: (2.72 ea) $41

10 Tape rolls, Large paper: $7 ea. .   $84

7 Packing paper (200 ct): $19.95     $160

3  Bubble Wraps (Lg box) $30 ea.     $78

2 Stretch Wrap 5", hand-held:  . . .   $20

4 Moving Label packs: $3 ea.  . . . . . $12

1 Marker pens & cutter knife set:  . . $5

                                TOTAL SO FAR = $572

specialty items

Mattress bags: 

____  Twin Mat Bag @ $5 ea = $______

____  Full Mat Bag @ $7 ea = $______

____  Queen @ $7 ea. = $______

____  King @ $8 ea. = $ ______

____  Pillow top Queen $9 ea. = $_______

____  Pillow top King $10 ea. = $_______

 

TV boxes

____  under 40" @ $20 = $______

____   up to 70" @ $30 = $______

 ____  72 to 86" @ $40 = $______

 

Picture boxes:

____  37"x27" @ $7 ea = $______

____  48"x32" @ $8 ea. = $_____

____  40"x60" @ $10 ea. = $_____

 

Foam corner sets for picture boxes

____  $8.95 ea. = $______

 

Wardrobe boxes

____  Shorty @ $16 ea. = $_______

____  Grand @ $20 ea. = $_______

 

45 Gallon plastic bags: $16 (yes or no)

 

 Dish Barrel Box & Cell Kit, $16 (yes or no)

TOTAL: ________

Paper tape has the advantage of being easy to tear by hand, and so does not need a tape dispenser (which can be a hassle).  It's also as strong if not better than plastic tape as far as holding the boxes together, when done right.  It's my preferred kind.

Only get wardrobe boxes for the hanging clothes that you don't want folded at all, otherwise use medium boxes for those, or extra large garbage bags.  You can leave your clothes in the dressers and chest-of-drawers so those don't need to be packed.  

All you need are the cheap mattress bags, unless you have an extra thick pillow top, or you're putting them into storage and want sealable ones (U-Haul has these other types as well).  I suggest you look at the section below about packing pictures before you decide if you need foam corners and/or picture boxes.  If you get your supplies when the U-Haul employees aren't so busy (usually in the afternoon), you can ask them to help gather up your supply list for you. 

A "Dish Barrel Box" is a double walled box with separation inserts for extra protection.  You only need a "double walled dish barrel box" if your dishes are high-end or if your load is going into a U-Pack ABF trailer or other extra high stacked load.  If you're getting a "Dish Barrel box", don't forget to buy the "Cell Kit" separately, because they don't automatically come together unless you buy them separately. 

You can do a better job packing if you have all sizes of plastic bags, marker pens, blank sticker labels, a box cutter knife, and possibly even a few drinks.  If you don't already have these the Dollar Store or Dollar Tree is a good place to get them.

It's easier to work from a "work station", with lots of room.  Usually, one of the best places for this is a dining table that you have placed a blanket over.  It's a little nicer with some stiff cardboard (unopened medium boxes) on top of that, for increased stability of items that could tip over.  Here you can place your stack of dish wrapping paper, the box you're working on, your pens, and a wet sponge to dampen your fingers to better grab the sheets of wrapping paper.

It's also helpful to clear off the nearest area of the kitchen counter, or other nearby table-like area to use as a central supplies area, to hold a general supplies box and lay out other smaller supplies.

There's going to be a good bit of trash, so it helps to have a dedicated trash box.

There's going to be a lot of reaching up high, so it helps to have a step stool ready.

You might also want to clear or designate an area to put all the boxes you pack.

If you are not the owner of the things to be packed, if you come across any pre-existing damage, make sure to let the owner know before packing, so you are not blamed for the damage later.

Notice the pesky little connections that hold the different cardboard flaps connected together, that looks like they forgot to cut the flaps fully away from each other.

They call those uncut connections "Flap-Locks".

To make a box, first fold the flaps down, with the "flap-lock tabs" under the hands as shown in the above  picture.

Then flex all folds of the box back & forth to reduce the pressure to spring back when trying to hold the box in position to tape.

Here you see an example of what we're aiming for, with the flaps folded against the side of the box, with those "flap lock" tabs intact holding the flaps from flopping open.

With the flaps folded down, open the box, flip it over, and place it on top of something the height of a chair, bench or medium size box so you don't have to bend down to work on it. Tape the bottom of the box, with three strips of tape going perpendicular to the seam, and one strip centered over the length of the seam. Rub the tape down after applying.

The three strips going perpendicular to the seam should go over the ends by an inch. The strip covering the length of the seam should go over the ends by six inches.

If you don't fold the flaps down it takes more time, effort and risk to reach in the box, multiplied by the hundreds of times you're going to reach.

To prepare boxes for dishes, first cushion the bottom with crumpled paper, a small pillow or a folded bath towel.  A folded towel can save time, is simpler, cheaper and provides superb protection.

Then bring a stack of plates to your work area.

Tap your fingers on a wet sponge that should be on the table to wet your fingers for much better paper gripping.

Place one plate in the middle of the stack of wrapping paper, and fold two sheets over from a corner.

Repeat folding over the other corners.  Some packers only fold over one or two corners to be quicker, which is usually sufficient, although not quite as fool proof or high-end of a job.

With all four corners folded in, leave the dish there.

Bring the next plate over and place it on top of the wrapped plate.

Fold two more sheets in from all four corners, wrapping around both plates.  

You now have two plates wrapped without removing either plate.

Repeat with additional plates until the stack is so high the paper doesn't fold over completely.

Then flip the plate bundle over and use two sheets to wrap around the stack from the other side.

Place your dish bundles parallel to the short direction of a small box, and fill any remaining space with crumpled paper or soft & light things.

Then, fill in the remaining space above the dishes with a folded towel, or crumpled paper.

Tape the top closed, 3 rows of tape across the top, and one strip down the flaps-joining center.  Remember to rub the tape down good to make it stick.

Then label the box in the upper right corner with the room it's from, a description of the contents, and any warning needed. If there's multiple packers, add your name.

If you forget to fold the flaps down before you tape the bottom of the box, you can  just tape the flaps down to make the reach easier.

It can also help to place the box that you are working on onto some other boxes (like shown to the left), or on something that makes the lip of your box at the optimum height for you to reach over.  

If your working box is on a table that might be a little too high for a position you could do your best work at.

A "Dish Barrel Box" has a separation insert, & costs a lot more ($16), but it better protects your dishes.  Dish Barrel Boxes are also double walled cardboard.

Using double walled boxes and Dish Barrel boxes is usually only the right way to go if the value of the items are particularly high, or if the load is going into an ABF trailer or extra high stacked load.

Create crumpled paper anywhere you want protection between things that could damage each other.  Flat paper does almost nothing to protect breakables. 

Try to keep things that are going in one box all from the same area to make unboxing easier. Only fragile or scratchabe things need paper wrapping

But if you place a fragile thing surrounded by "soft" or non-hard things you can skip the paper wrapping on that item. 

Put things from the same drawer in the same box.  Use plastic bags to group together things that would be hard to separate later.

Make sure the lids of all containers with liquids are on tight.  It's even better to also put them in a sealed bag to protect against spills (or don't take them).

It's a good idea to make an "Electronics" box for all remotes, cables, phone chargers, cords, and other small accessories. 

Either you or the moving crew can stretch-wrap a lot of things right in place.

It's a higher end job if the more easily damageable things get wrapped in paper.

but you can put many individual items rolled up in the same sheet of paper.

It's a higher-end job if you stretch wrap bundles of silverware, to prevent any rubbing or scratching.

But you can do a quicker job by just stretch wrapping the whole silverware set holder, so it doesn't spill if the box is tipped.

Things that are in trays or groupings should be put in bags containing those groupings, because no one wants to spend a year trying to resort thousands of little things from a giant pile when unpacking.

For large fragile things, place them in a box with pillows & soft things.  So save soft things for this use.

If the priority is time and expense savings, it's an option to just leave things inside of drawers, doors, & cubbie spaces.

The trick for doing this is to wrap any fragile breakables, and to fill the remaining space with things like pillows, coats, blankets or wrapping paper, just to keep things from banging around. 

Then, seal it in with plastic wrap and/or blanketing, or your moving crew should be doing this part for you.

For TV's, it's best to use a TV box because it has spacer foam corners that create an air gap to prevent pressure against the screen.

If your move situation allows it, it can save time and expense to put a TV in a passenger car, but it's a little more risky.

You can prepare to box-up your non-plasma TV laying it down.  But tilting a Plasma TV more than a little can ruin the screen.  Keep Plasma TV's mostly upright.

After stretch wrapping the corners on, without ever touching the screen, slide it into the smaller end of the TV box.

Slide the two box-halves together, tape it, and tuck it somewhere it's not going to fall over.   If it's a plasma TV, make sure to keep it upright, and draw a huge arrow pointing upwards on the box on both sides.

Then label it, and include the location of source room (to identify the TV), and identify where the TV stand is stowed.  If there is more than one packer packing the house, add the name of the packer (for accountability).

Pictures that will fit in a medium or large  box should be bubble wrapped, and placed in descending size order, making sure the frames are against each other's frames, and not against glass. 

Fill the remaining space above and to the sides of the pictures with a pillow, folded towel, clothes, or crumpled paper to make it firm.

For pictures that are too big to go in large moving boxes, the moving crew can blanket-wrap them and place them frame on frame, in descending size order, all on a folded up blanket in the "mom's attic" .  It's not the safest way, but it is "pretty" safe with only extremely rare damage ever occurring.  It does, however, use up more crew-time to do this.

Foam corners put in a picture box is by far the best protection.  It's the air gap created between the glass and the cardboard (besides the foam corners) that is the key to providing the very best protection.  It just costs $9 for the foam corners &  $8 for a medium picture box. I have never experienced any damage, ever, using this method. If you use anything less than this method you are taking at least some small risk of damage.

If you're trying to save money on packing supplies, you can put multiple extra-large pictures in the same picture box.  There's no law against it.  But if you do so, you should at least choose picture sizes to go against each other that have like size frames that can lean against and support each other's frames, to avoid frame on glass contact.  You should also bubble wrap them, and add stuffing to hold them in place and prevent them from sliding. But even so, this is still definitely more risky than using the foam corners.

The most frequent cause of picture damage I have witnessed is caused when the pictures are taken off the wall and stacked up against each other.    

The back side of a  picture has the sharp protrusions that can damage the front side of another picture. So stack only back to back, and face to face, gently, in groups of like size pictures, where the frames support each other.

You can leave your clothes in your dressers and chest-of-drawers (Highboys)These are going to be padded up all cozy-like, and your clothes will be fine staying inside.  We have tools that will make the weight not really matter much.

Coats, or bulky fabrics (even hanging clothes) can go in garbage bags (50 cents ea.)   

Or, hanging clothes can be folded into medium boxes ($2.24 each by the bundle), 

Or they can stay hanging in a wardrobe box ($15 to $20 each)

LAMPS

Lamps are easy.  

I've outlined how you can do it below.

Table lamps can go in large boxes, padded on the bottom with crumpled paper, pillows, or bulky fabrics.

First unscrew the cap and take the shade off.  It's better to never touch the fabric of the shade, only the metal.

Remove the harp by lifting up the little bell shaped things, and squeezing the wires towards each other.

Screw the cap back on the harp, & wrap the harp in paper.

If there's more than one harp going into the same box as the lamp, label the harp, & which lamp it goes to (they're not all the same)

Multiple shades can go over each other, small to Large, but add a sheet of wrapping paper between them.

Wrap the chord on the base.

or use a rubber band to bundle the cord.

Wrap the lamp base in bubble wrap (or a coat or big towel).  Then use a little piece of  tape to hold the wrap together.

Put it in the cushioned box standing upright, & fill in between multiple lamps with bulky fabrics, a coat, or crumpled paper. 

If you a lay lamp base on it's side it's more likely to break. 

Wrap the light bulbs individually in crumpled paper, taped together in a group, and add to your lamp box.  Don't skip the tape or the crumpled paper can be mistaken for empty paper.

Label a lamp box "Top Load" written ON THE SIDE OF THE BOX.  This means that this box is light, and so being high is better for the stack of boxes underneath it, in addition to the factor that it's not quite as solid to withstand the weight of being lower in a stack.

Pay attention to which boxes contain something that is packed in a way that makes the item need to be loaded in the truck upright with a certain side UP, and label those boxes  box with an actual ARROW drawn pointing up, written on the side of the box.

Lamp shades that don't fit over each other get their own box, with crumpled paper on all sides, or wrapped in a blanket or coat.

If your moving crew shows up and you don't have a lamp boxed up, as a second best option they can find a place to just lay it down in the truck nestled in a blanket. 

Fabric shades cab be put in garbage bags & placed on top or in a cabinet, but it's not quite as safe or fool-proof as boxing them up.

The safest way to move Pole lamps is to box up the shade separately, possibly bubble wrap them, and put them in POLE LAMP BOXES, upright, and have pillows or coats stuffed around them, to keep them from shifting.  Save pillows and coats for this type of purpose.

However, if it's a priority to save money & packing expense, then you can have your moving crew just take the shade off, wrap the pole in a moving blanket and tuck it in somewhere.  But pole lamps are notoriously vulnerable to pole sections coming loose when handled horizontally, so if you choose this method you are accepting a realistic risk of pulling apart or looseness to the pole sections.

For computers, the tower would go preferably in a double walled electronics box, just because it's extra heavy & extra important. But the key thing is to pack it on top of and surrounded on all sides by several inches of thick cushioning, like a thick comforter, blanket or pillows.  This dampens risky vibrations & jolts.

Then, the monitor should go in a small TV box with the foam corners, because this creates an air gap that prevents even the box from coming near the screen.

If you want further instructions on all this, you can take a look at some of the You Tube videos linked below, which demonstrate much of what has been explained above, and which offers a few variations you can choose between.  You also have the option to call us any time to ask any question you may have, as we are happy to help with whatever free advice you might want.   So feel free to call anytime.